To remove the top cover, open the back and hold the rewind fork while unscrewing the rewind knob. Watch for a washer underneath the knob.

Unscrew the pinface screw in the wind lever and then lift off the spring washer, wind lever, cam, and shim.

Remove the screws in the side of the top cover and lift the cover off. The screw in the back is only a rangefinder adjustment cover and can remain in place.

The release button has a pin inside it that may fall out. Often, this pin has a small amount of grease on it that will cause it to stay in place.

Turn the top cover over and you see a strip of light seal foam next to the meter display window. Usually this foam is rotten and needs to be replaced.

The accessory shoe cover is removed by lifting up the front edge and sliding the cover back.

The bottom cover is held by two screws. The battery cover can remain attached.

When removing the cover, watch for the door latch release lever. This lever has a spring attached to it and will swing out of place when the cover is removed. There is a washer on the button and if you are not careful the washer will fly off as the spring pushes the lever out of place.

This image shows the rangefinder adjustment screws. The screw in the back adjusts the horizontal matching. The screw on the side moves the mirror to adjust the vertical matching. There are often shims behind the mirror to adjust for variations in mirror width. If you install a new mirror, you may need to remove or add shims to get the vertical matching correct. You may also find it necessary to slightly bend the bracket holding the mirror to get it flush against the adjustment screw.

The black paper cover over the rangefinder is glued in place. Just slide a knife blade along the edge to remove the paper and give access to the lenses for cleaning.

This image is a closeup of the meter. Note the small mirror sitting at an angle behind the meter needle. This mirror provides illumination for the meter needle and causes the needle position to show in the viewfinder. Often this mirror is missing. You can replace the mirror with anything shiny enough to reflect light into the viewfinder. I have used both aluminum foil and stainless steel shim material to do this and both work fine.

The green colored glass is painted. It is not a good idea to try and clean this as the paint will easily rub off.

To remove the shutter from the camera, first unsolder the wires at the meter, making a drawing of the position of each wire. I find it difficult to get a soldering iron in to work on the meter, so I usually just remove the meter first. The meter is held by two screws at the back.

Peel back the leatherette on the front to expose the four screws. Remove the screws and then carefully lift the mounting plate off the camera. The battery lead wire is connected to the switch on the front. Unsolder the black lead wire and the entire shutter and lens is then free from the camera. The red wire can remain attached.

Back out the screw on the wiring bracket to get the wires free.and then unsolder the flash connector wire.

Unscrew the rear lens and then unscrew the shutter retaining ring and the shutter will lift out of the mounting plate. You need to pull the wires through as you lift the shutter off. There is a light seal around the rear lens. This will almost always be rotten and need to be replaced.

On every Lynx I've worked on, the shutter retaining ring was screwed in extremely tight. Apparently these rings are installed before the paint is set and are thus "glued" in place by the paint. Try running some laquer thinner or acetone around the ring to loosen the adhesion.

This picture shows the rangefinder removed. I did this to make repairs on the rangefinder. Normally, the rangefinder can remain in place.

To disassemble the shutter, start by unscrewing the front lens. Set a friction tool against the inner chrome ring and turn it. The lens and ring will come out as a unit.

The filter ring unscrews as well. If you are not going to disassemble the speed and aperture control, the filter ring can remain in place.

Turn the lock screw 1/2 turn until the flat side faces towards the center then unscrew the serrated retaining ring. The controls can then be lifted off the shutter. When lifting the controls off, be careful not to bend the wiper springs attached to the shutter base.

The three screws visible from the front hold the speed control ring to the resistor ring. Don't remove these screws at this point. These screws can be loosend and the resistor ring turned slightly to make adjustment to the meter. It's a good idea to mark the position of the resistor ring if you intend to disassemble these pieces.

To disassemble the aperture, turn the shutter over and remove the three screws in the brass plate. Note the position of the gap in the plate relative to the hole in the black inner tube. This picture shows the plate at the B position. Lift the plate off and the interior aluminum tube will also come out from the front.

These three screws are slightly different in length than the three screws that hold the shutter speed ring in place. The first Lynx I worked on I got the screws swapped. When that happens, the lens will not screw all the way in. It probably took me a day to figure out what I did wrong, so make sure not to mix up the screws.

Extending out of the aperture ring is a lever that extends back through the shutter to operate the diaphragm. Although difficult to see in this picture due to the angle, this lever is badly bent on this camera. Most Lynx cameras have this problem to some extent. The lever is soft metal and easily bent so you can carefully bend it back straight. However, the lever will often break loose from its studs in the aperture control ring. If this happens, just reattach the lever with super glue after bending it straight. On this camera, the lever was so badly bent that the aperture control ring was damaged. You may have to straighten this ring as well. I had a spare from a junk camera, so I just replaced the ring rather than try to bend it back straight.

The aperture ring is held in place by two flat metal springs (see next picture) and simply lifts off.

This picture shows the aperture ring separated from the shutter speed ring. Note the two flat springs riveted to the black inner tube. The purpose of these springs is to move the aperture ring when the shutter speed is changed so that the exposure value remains constant. The tension of these springs has to be strong enough to overcome the resistance of the diaphragm but light enough to slip when the diaphragm reaches the end of its travel. This little feature is what causes so much problem with the diaphragm control lever.

These two pieces are easy to take apart, but can be quite difficult to reassemble. I'm always tempted to just break off the springs.

Turn the shutter speed ring back over and remove the screws from the front. The pieces will then separate. Look at the inside of the resistor ring and you see a strip of carbon that provides the resistor for metering. This strip will sometimes develop dead spots and can also come loose. I avoid trying to clean this strip since doing so tends to remove some of the carbon. You need the appropriate electrical cleaner to clean this properly.

This picture is a closeup of the ASA click stop and ASA wiper inside the aperture ring. To remove the ASA ring, pull back the click stop spring and remove the steel ball. Lift the ASA ring out and then remove the click stop spring. Be very careful around the wiper. It is very thin metal and easily bent. If you bend it, straighten it back before reassembly. Check for corrosion on this wiper and clean it if needed.

This wiper is key to the metering system. The battery + side is electrically connected to this wiper through the battery cover, camera body, front mounting plate and shutter housing. As the aperture ring is rotated, this wiper moves along the resistor strip and varies the amount of voltage that is picked up by the two wipers attached to the shutter housing. Rotating the shutter speed ring moves the resistor past the two wipers also.

This picture shows the shutter mechanism. The Copal SV shutter is very similar to the Copal MXV shutter.

Note the two wipers at the top of the shutter base. These wipers have to slide into slots in the shutter speed control ring during reassembly. Be careful not to bend them, and clean them if they show signs of corrosion.

This picture is a closeup of the escapement retard. Unlike the MXV this escapement only has two screws holding it to the base. You remove the screw at the top in the cover and the screw at the base next to the pallet. There are shims underneath the assembly.

Usually a slow shutter indicates that there is dried lubricant and dirt in the mechanism. You clean and lubricate it and the shutter comes back to proper speed. On this shutter, the slow speeds were too fast. Although it may sound strange, that is also usually caused by dirt and dried lubricant. Look at how the pallet sits on a lever that is held back by a stud on the blade operating ring. When the shutter fires and the speed cam is set to the slow speed range, this lever has to swing into place fast enough so that the pallet is engaged before the mainspring unwinds past the retard. If this lever is sticking, the pallet won't move into place and the shutter will run fast at the slow speed settings. A complete cleaning solved the problem and the shutter now runs perfectly at one second.

From the back of the shutter you see the diaphragm control plate. There is a slot in the edge of this plate that must mate with the lever attached to the aperture control ring. The slot is at the lower right in this picture. This slot can get bent so that the lever will not sit properly inside it. Bend the small tabs if needed so that the lever does not pop out of the slot.

In order to separate the shutter halves, remove the three screws holding this plate and then lift the plate off. Remove the screw holding the M/X selector. After that, disassembly is essentially the same as for the MXV shutter.

To disassemble the focus helicoid, start by removing the two screws in the focus knob then lift the knob and focus scale off.

This picture shows the focus ring rotated against the infinity stop. You may want to mark the infinity position of the brass ring before disassembling further.

Back out the setscrews in the side of the focus control ring and lift the ring off.

At this point you should carefully measure the height of the brass ring above the base. This will help determine the proper location during reassembly of the helicoid.

Turn the front plate over and remove the rangefinder coupling bracket and the three screws holding the helicoid to the front plate. The entire assembly will then separate from the front plate.

Look at the shutter release lever. There is an eccentric post on the end of the lever. You can turn this post with a screwdriver to change the position of the shutter release.

The guides can remain attached to the front plate.

This picture shows a bracket at the bottom where the flash wire goes. This was put there inadvertently and is not supposed to be there.

Unscrew the helicoid from the black outer ring and then separate the inner and outer helicoid pieces. Count the number of turns and note the position where each of the rings separates. It will make it easier to reset the focus after reassembly if you reposition the pieces at their original position.